Welcome to the first edition of The Paper News!
We hope you find this newsletter to be both informative and inspirational.
If you have trouble reading this in your email program, you can also read it on the web. The Paper News is under active development and we welcome any suggestions
for improvements. We also welcome content! Please send
us your questions or suggestions as well as photos of your creations.
Enjoy! - Sandy Jackson
do I make a 3D hot air balloon? A
hot air balloon is made by turning a Pear (from our stamp
set or precut
paper) upside down. You must decorate the paper before assembling
the model. If this is the first time you are making a decorated
pear, it's a good idea to assemble it first and mark on the model
where the decorations should go. For instance, to make a balloon
like the one on the left, assemble the model and then draw a line
where you want to separate the stripes from the solid blue. Then
disassemble the model and color the paper. Cut off the stem and some
of the top of the pear and then reassemble. Finally, attach
a miniature basket or thimble with threads to complete the balloon.
I would like to sell some of the crafts I make from
your stamp sets for profit. Is that OK? The models you create using our stamp sets are yours to do with as you please. If you wish to sell them, it is proper to give credit to (some assembly required)™ for the engineering. What you cannot do is stamp out the patterns, copy them, and distribute them. This is a violation of our copyright, whether you sell the patterns or not. Distributing or selling the patterns harms our company and could put us out of business.
To put it another way, consider our stamp sets as tools and the patterns as a blueprint. If you were to create a chair with tools and a blueprint you purchased at a hardware store, the chair is yours to do with as you please. However, you didn't make the blueprint to create the chair and you shouldn't distribute it or copy it.
In general, I find 65 lb. to 80 lb. cover stock to be ideal for all sizes of models. This is quite a large range. I usually go for the paper that has the right color and texture for the model I plan to build. Finally, the weight of a paper doesn't tell you how thick or rigid it is; if you examine several 80 lb. cover papers you will see that they vary quite a lot. The hard, smooth papers will generally be much more durable than the "spongy" ones.
Miniature dies for the tree and egg are now available. (Die sets for the star and heart are coming soon!) The models produced with these dies are perfect for jewelry
or mini pop ups in greeting cards. The dies can be used with the Accucut Zip'eMate, the QuicKutz Personal Die Cutting System, the Sizzix Personal Die-Cutter or the Spellbinders Wizard
Die Cut System.
Crafting SAR models with plastic can produce amazing
effects. To the right is a Heart
crafted from transparency film colored by an ink jet printer. Other
SAR models, such as the Bottle
and the Snow
Globe, beg to be crafted from plastic. Have you ever seen an opaque
snow globe? We haven't. So in this article, we will discuss
issues and considerations when crafting with plastic. We’ve
been experimenting with three plastics that you can use for your projects.
They are: acetate, polyester, and polycarbonate. The one you choose
for your project will depend on your design.
Three major factors to consider in selecting a plastic
are clarity, durability, and reflectivity. To test the clarity of
a plastic, look through a stack of 10 or so small pieces. If you are
comparing different materials, make sure each stack is of the same
thickness for the test to be accurate. Durable plastics are easier
to craft and will make longer lasting models. Since you will be cutting
and bending the plastic, it needs to be strong enough to be crafted
with. It is important that cuts in the plastic do not become
tears. Reflectivity is a factor because if the plastic reflects light,
you won't be able to see into the model. On the other hand, if you
want a crystalline effect, higher reflectivity is more desirable.
All of these factors will be discussed in further detail below.
Another issue to consider is which ink to use. Stazon
ink works well with all of the plastics we've tested, and can be cleaned
off with 99% isopropyl alcohol available at local drug stores. Be sure to read the concentration, because alcohols with a lower percentage will not clean off the ink very well.
After cutting the pieces for your model, it is important
to remove all traces of ink from the plastic. This will make the illusion of glass perfect.
Acetate film is the most visually attractive plastic.
Acetate’s excellent clarity and low reflectivity make it ideal
for crafting a transparent snow globe. Unfortunately, it is very fragile:
acetate film is actually produced from plant cellulose! It is also
the same plastic used for motion picture film in the mid 20th century,
and, as you probably know, those films are deteriorating in their
canisters. So don’t plan on crafting any heirlooms with acetate.
A straight cut in acetate film will easily start a tear in the plastic.
To minimize this problem, punch a small hole at the end of the slot
you intend to cut before you cut out the slot.
If you choose to work with acetate film, you will have the best results
with a sheet .007 inches in thickness.
Mylar is a brand of polyester . Mylar is used for making
transparencies and you can find it in most office supply stores. If
you are going to use transparency film for making SAR models, there
are two things to keep in mind. First, be certain that the sheets
are as clear as you want since transparencies vary in opacity. Second,
transparencies are coated on one side so as to absorb printer ink.
Do not stamp on the coated side: ink on the coated side will smudge
when you try to clean it. Since mylar is more durable than acetate
film, the models you craft with it will last longer. Unfortunately,
mylar is more reflective and less clear than acetate. As well, we
haven’t been able to find transparency sheets thicker than .004
inches, which makes rather delicate models. However, transparencies
can be run through a color ink jet printer. This is a great advantage!
With the colors, designs, or images you could print on transparent
plastic, imagine the elaborate Bottles, Hearts, or Eggs you could
In addition to transparencies, you can find Mylar of
various thickness, of varying clarity, as well as coated or uncoated.
Dura-lar is a coated polyester available from Dick
Blick and is ideal for making SAR models because it is available on flat sheets. In general, avoid buying any
mylar that comes on a roll. Once mylar is curled, it takes a set that
would be the envy of hairdressers. Curled mylar stays curled. You
can’t even iron it flat. If you know how to flatten curled mylar,
us know! We would gladly share that information in a future edition
of the Paper News.
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